Day 22, Bhaktapur, 10 k from Kathmandu

Bhaktapur I imagine is like those old fort towns in India that people continue to live in. Its so quiant that its hard to imagine people stay in that place. Its a little buit like a showcase city / doll house. The town square is a cluster of buuldings on display but in use. Most of it comes alive in the festive season. There is also a temple that seems to be under renovation for the upcoming festival season. Till then its cordoned off to visitors.

I spent a few hours in Bhaktapur today. Lets see if the pictures below tell a good tale.

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The town square as soon as you enter with the pagoda like building to the right

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The main square begins here on with a cluster of buildings - houses, temples, out buildings - now converted to restaurants, hotels, a museum etc

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The juxtaposition of the old and the new? 400 year old temple entrance and a pretty new motobike

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The temple area begins. I thought the lions guarding the buuildings were pretty striking and replicated in metal / stone all over

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Metal lion at the temple

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They call this the Golden Gate. 1. made me think of how I still want to see the Golden Gate in SF 2. awesome woodwork in the area inside

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Trying to get a better look at the woodworl

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My coffee place almost at the entrance of the town square

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Wooden ties anyone?

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Monasteruy! I climbed up the stairs and they were building a Buddha statue. Sweet chat with the owner and worker there, how do they come across as so humble?

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I met two ducks on the way...

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Still amazed that they live here

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A tiny lane between buildings. The extent of woodwork is stellar though it has been redone multiple times yes

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The temple at the furthest square for tourists in town

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Guardian of the temple steps. Distinct Indian / Hindu influences

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Walked onto this thanka shop in a bylane on my way to the potters area of the town

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Two old men and a game of chess - btw I bought myself one of these hats. Super Nepali convert

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A corner of the potters area

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And I could not resist taking one of the old man staring out in deep thought of this wondow

To the White Monastery early tomorrow morning at 0630 I go. Time to wind up today :)

 

 

EBC Journal: Day 3, 0641 hours, 2595 meters, Phakding

Well slept and rested. Breakfast on the way. Rained last night hence should be a clear day. Full moon as I mentioned. Excited to be hitting Namche soon.

2690 meters, Benkgar Guest House. Approx 11 am

First tea break of the day. Rhododendrons on the way and a well lit path. Spotted Mt Thamserku on the way. At 6600 meters appros it is quite an imposing peak on the trail. See a lot of helicopters to and fro BC and Namche Bazar. A sign here says we’re halfway between Lukla and Namche (4 hours each way) and then cheekily adds it depends on walking speed. I am avoiding the tea for now but doing well on the fluid intake. (pee and tell). Will probably email the world from Namche Bazar!

3395 meters, Namche Bazar, 1600 hours

700 metres+ gained in less than 7 hours. Feels geekily good. We had a fair shower getting into Namche and it was a wonderful chance to test my waterproof equipment. Well at least the top jacket and the bag cover. I think I am well served! The children, as always in the hills, are pick cheeked and sweet. Yesterday as I whipped out my camera to catch a girl with the cat she was cuddling she promptly shouted “No pic-chah!”. I got some of my own back today when I shook hands with a young boy, flashed the camera at him and he had me surprised when he posed promptly at attention for the picture, had a quick look and then bobbed away down the mountain. I wish we’d swapped names. Also – if you hold you a hand the kids high five you and them scamper away. Charming

2121 hours, post dinner

Post shower and a well deserved tea at Namche bazaar done we took a quick stroll around Namche Bazaar. Its a bustling place with shops, trekkers and porters. The mountain views of he surrounding peaks even from the village itself are splendid. 

Tomorrow is another day at Namche. We are trekking out till lunch and then have the afternoon to relax and recoup. We see our first sight of Everest (think we missed one of the way up from Namche due to rain and clouds). We will also see Ama Dablam for the first time. 

D day almost there! Goodbyes and expensive buys

Amit_-_go_for_your_walk
Amit dropped by this morning to say good luck for the 'long walk' that 60 year olds do too. Thank god for Amit - always brings you down to mother earth. We managed to catch Vidur on the phone too to say hello.

Then I went to Def Col to run errands - medicines, camelbak and stuff. 

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Rob says - I'm going to go to Sikkim / Leh so I'll see you when I see you ;)

Ishaan_-_go_with_the_flow

Ishan says go with the flow and come back and catch a beer with me when you're back. 

I pick up the meds and a huge pack of sunscreen and then head to the adventure store. I think there I make one of the best decisions to date by picking up a 3 ltr Camelbak - I think its going to be a lifesaver

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I might take a big decision tomorrow and pick up a Suunto with an altimeter, barometer and alarm. If I do - I am going to have to plan another trek soon to make sure I out my money to good use. ;)

 

D Day minus two - the devil lies in the details

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Its down to the details now for the EBC and ABC trek. Wrapping up work while running multiple errands is the tough part. But here's what today looked like

- camera spare batteries and charger procured. Little bit of running around to replace the faulty charger but worth it
- quick run down of inventory. Thanks to Chandini I now have a neck warmer and a spare beanie that fits my big head to boot AND
- a cool set of - 'expose to the air and have them warm' pads that are great to insert into a sleeping bag at night - final list of missing equipment - camel pack, fleece jacket, wondering if I need gor-tex lowers.

No workout today on purpose. I feel pretty fit. I have not lost much weight or maybe none at all but I've been throwing myself at the cardio bikes, cross trainer and treadmill. I've pushed and pulled weights. I've eaten early and slept a lot. I think I still carry 4 kilos too many but I think the legs and back are strong. I definitely find the regular gym routine - bike 3 km at a resistance of ~ 11, cross train ~ 3km at a varying resistance, 100 push ups / 60 stomach curls, 40 deadlifts / 60 squats quite a breeze. Usually I'll also throw in an extra km on the mill, few minutes on the bike, 40 extra push ups. The back niggles are gone - I've been doing a lot of horizontal lying swing from the hip. Feel like I have a new back. I don't think I'll be the sinewest on the trek but I think I'll be battle hardened with Everest for a solid hike up Annapurna.

I've also had a very heart warming response to my trip from friends and colleagues - I sent out an email and collectively the replies gave me goose bumps when I replayed them in my head. This stuff is what dreams are made off - ok, maybe small dreams :)

I also managed to close the day by extracting four 5 rupee coins out of my gorgeous dinner date. Not bad eh? Sent from BlackBerry® on Airtel

Day minus 5 – checklist and gear

At this point I am most concerned about having my gear in place for the EBC and ABC trek.

I think the physical fitness is more or less there. I feel good and I think I am looking forward to the mountain air like it’s the fix I have been waiting for. 

The major part of the gear is done:

- I shopped a fair bit last week in India (light shoes, thermal and blister preventing socks, medicine, inner layers) and pulled out my trekking boots and packs. The headlight and torch (trusted maglite) and spare batteries are also ready

- My friend, Chandini (and an adventure type herself - you should check out her Antarctica pictures sometime) carted all the stuff I ordered via Craghoppers online all the way back from London. My beanie is small! I think she’s lending me hers. Sweetheart.

- Craghoppers took sometime to process an international order but the stuff is fabulous! The stitching is great, the finished products superb and hope they last well. I got a few kiwi trousers, a couple of shirts and waterproof stuff

- A friend of my Dad’s gifted me a telescopic walking stick and a waterproof pack cover – essential items for this trek

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- Ma’s been nice enough to stitch a sleeping bag inner layer – critical for cleanliness and warmth

The list will go on – I think I pack up day after on Wednesday and then I’ll rush for last min stuff. 

Intrepid wrote in with a sweet note to check if I was all set. Like that about them – and as I told them, I cannot wait to go.

Tomorrow is the day to collect cash and travelers cheques, pick up memory cards for the camera and scoop up some music for the iPod. 

And oh yeah – Kaberi popped some great recommendations for reading on the trek. I think I am carrying some Pico Iyer and Marcus Aurelius’s – Meditations. Looking good yet.